Engineered Garments SS15
Daiki Suzuki delivers another outstanding collection: a perfect materialization of the vintage-inspired aesthetic Engineered Garments has been known for. Mixing elements of British military stationed in India with a somewhat preppy influence, the result is an incredible mix of pattern and texture, spread throughout reinvented classics.
1ST PAT-RN SS15 Pitti Preview
Visiting Silvia, Alessio and Cris has become a regular entry on my agenda ever since I came across 1ST PAT-RN. As a fan and proud owner of 3 of their jackets, it’s always a pleasure to check in and discuss new developments and designs. The unique military inspired aesthetic along with an exclusive “cavalry di maglia” fabric, allows for a tailored yet comfortable look: fully unstructured with no lining, the knitted fabric adjusts to the body and regains its shape after each wash.
For SS15, the major change comes through the addition of bottom pieces such as the indigo selvedge denim and knitted shorts. Also, next season sees a new fabric development come to life: the “gabardina a maglia”, a sort of gabardine twill that provides the first woven approach to 1ST PAT-RN models. Besides the essential single and double breasted jackets, new worker jackets made the cut in beautiful camel and indigo shades.
Tricker’s Churchill Slippers in Safari Linen. Exclusively made for Marc Anthony and Anton Meyer.
Gene Krell’s Focus | United Arrows Harajuku
United Arrows - as a brand and retail concept - has always been on my shortlist. That they have been able to maintain a consistent quality of clothing despite their ubiquity in Japan, and fierce competition from many equivalently thorough retailers, makes me all the more jealous we don’t have them overseas.
The visual narrative of every United Arrows store is a self-contained affair. Whereas the more well known high street retailers thrive on uniformity, my understanding of visual merchandising within UA is that each store is given substantial stretch room.
The clothes on offer never cease to impress. Whereas brands that come to rely on a middle-of-the-road ‘look’ often grow staid, and fade into obscurity, UA’s clothing never feels pedestrian. Admittedly, the proportions are typical of high quality southern Italian garb but this does nothing to detract from the creative way in which that classicism is conveyed. Knit ties come in ever so slightly more slubby textures, trad footwear is made radical by clever use of texture, and suiting colors subvert tired expectations of inky navies and drab greys (not that there is a problem with either of those).